Turning 35 at La Meilleure Jeunesse

When we were invited to a birthday party at La Meilleure Jeunesse one Saturday night we were keen to see how one particular 34 year-old was handling the transition to 35 – which as we all kept reminding him is, after all, half of 70. We were also curious to see how a (Belgian) restaurant would deal with a table for 17 (thirsty and hungry) people.  Would we be subjected to grumpy Belgians at their best, or would they take it in their stride?

The choice of restaurant turned out to be perfect.  A table was booked for 15 people for 9pm.  At 2pm on the day of the booking, two more decided they would make it after all.  A quick call to the husky-voiced maitre d’ and the table was extended to 17.  6pm and another two people wanted to know if they could join us.  Another call to Kathleen Turner soundy-likey.  This time there was a touch less warmth in the voice: “Ah non, hein!  Ca suffit.  Deja ils seront les uns sur les autres. Ca va pas aller.”  Oops, sorry Andreas.  We’ll have to meet for a drink later.

When we got to the restaurant, we realised Kathleen T really wasn’t joking.  There was no way even 17 were going to sit comfortably around these tables – and half the table had better not even think about getting out for a smirt or a visit to Mme Pipi (and that included the 7-month pregnant lady!). Dubbed “the Sacred Bordello”, La Meilleure Jeunesse was not always known for its food.  Many a hot date has been spoiled here – not because the place or food disappoint but because the waitresses surprise.  They were said to be part-time models and when The Guide probed a little further with the Bruxellois in the group, a knowing smile quickly spread across the faces of our male companions.  Tonight, however, no dates were to be spoiled (at least at our table) and the waitresses could be as charming as they liked.

When we arrived we were asked if we wanted an aperitif or a cocktail.  Now, in Brussels, The Guide would never normally opt for a cocktail.  There’s no point, it’s always wrong.  But the question threw us and we found ourselves ordering Cosmopolitans.  This was a mistake.  By name and colour it resembled our choice but the ice floating around the top and the lack of any flavour whatsoever left us unimpressed. Never mind, it was our own fault.

10.30pm and the first course arrived.  The foie gras maison (€14) was delicious.  Our neighbour ordered a cheeky glass of Sauternes to go with it.  Nice move.  For the main course we had cabillaud a la vapeur (€17) which sounded like the menu minceur but was coupled with lard fume, chicons a l’estragon and  served with a choice of pates grecques (what on earth are they and why do they taste like macaroni cheese?), riz blanc or pommes natures.  Only the pates grecques were actually served but in all the confusion it didn’t seem to matter.  Birthday boy had his magret de canard du sud-ouest de la France aux epices (€17) and seemed happy enough.

Catering for a group of 17 is not easy. The Guide certainly wouldn’t want to do it. Indeed, the couple on a hot date behind us rather wished we had been turned away.  But if you’re the one sitting with the large group, it’s huge amounts of fun. The evening went by in a flash and when the bill came, it was a very pleasant surprise to the Londoners around the table who last paid a bill that size in Wagamama.

But it couldn’t end there.  Just one more drink was required, so off we all trotted to TriBeCa on Avenue Louise.   It was like entering a whole other world.  Worthy of a post all of its own.

La Meilleure Jeunesse, 58, rue de l’Aurore, B-1000 Bruxelles, Tel: +32 2 640 23 94.